I found Batman in Lesotho

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

(Recommended song choice for this blog entry: "Everything in It's Right Place" - Radiohead)


Today I travelled to a different country to meet with shepherds, and witnessed the handover of the traditional shepherds' blankets to the shepherds, paid for through Sani Lodge's Shepherds' Fund.

One was dressed in his traditional clothes that resembled something in the nature of Batman. 

Once again, I found myself stimulated by he simplicity of this foreign culture, and how achievable and reachable their simplicity is. 

I had a beer from Lesotho in the highest pub in Africa - 2874 metres high - local is lekker! 

I woke up to a throbbing pain behind my right ear this morning. I am not too sure what it is, but it looks and feels like some form of insect bite. Luckily I have my travel-friendly medical kit on hand. If it gets any worse I will stop by the local pharmacy tomorrow. Before embarking on this trip - I managed to get an emergency anti-biotic prescription, just in case.

I got so sleepy from the altitude change.
Tomorrow I leave the Southern Drakensberg and make my way towards Soweto - my final stop before I depart back to Cape Town. 

ALI'S TIPS OF THE TRIP:

#1) Definitely order yourself a slice Sani Lodge's famous chocolate cake. You only live once, and you wont be disappointed.

#2) Just a small heads up: I suggest you embark on an early start up the Sani Pass if you intend on crossing the Lesotho border as the border closes at 16h00 each day - AND an important point to note is that the Pass is sometimes closed due to harsh weather conditions!

#3) If Sani Pass is on your bucket list, I suggest you get on this bandwagon ASAP, as plans to tar this road are floating around the air. The state of the road is hazardous and faces extreme damage within the next five years due to vicious weather conditions and rough surrounding terrain.

I personally hope that they do not tar this carved road. A serious environmental impact - perhaps a better alternative can be found, what with a dedicated road maintenance team, the environment can be preserved and a few extra sustainable jobs created?

I suppose everything in its right place. 

You can see the state of the Sani Pass road by this picture. There have been many failed attempts of navigating 4x4's up this course due to poor traction surfaces and steep gradients. 

Sani Pass.

The Shepherds' Fund: Sani Lodge helps benefit the Basotho community in terms of payment for the services rendered by the community to Sani Lodge. Sani Lodge recognises the importance of cultural practices, encouraging and supporting them through the adventure activities into Lesotho which they offer their guests. One of the main funds they run is the Shepherds' Fund, whereby each time the lodge takes tourists into Lesotho, they put aside 25 ZAR for the shepherds. Throughout the year the lodge's adventure guides collect the names of the shepherds in the immediate surrounding areas of their tours, and at the end of February each year (such as today), Russell, with the help of his staff, handout blankets which they were able to buy with the money which had been put aside for the Shepherds' Fund.

Originally, Sani Lodge was going to handover the funds to the shepherds directly as they were, but on the shepherds' requests, now have traditional blankets made for them which are then distributed to the names on the Shepherds' Fund's list. These Basotho blankets are made of thick wool, which are used as their traditional attire. These blankets are worn throughout the country as well as throughout the year, providing different services as the seasons change. The blankets keep the rain off of the shepherds in the summer, and the keep the cold at bay in the winter. 

The surreal landscapes which characterise Lesotho. Lesotho is the only country with the highest low point in the world: 1450 metres above sea level. Its highest point is 3482 metres above sea level.

Because of its high altitudes, Sani Lodge remains cool throughout the year. Most of its rainfall is experienced through its summer thunderstorms, despite the lowlands being able to reach a temperature of 30'c.
Winters can be extremely cold, where the lowlands remain around -7'c, and the highlands drop to a staggering -18'c. Snow is common in the highlands during the months of May through to September, but the higher peaks can experience snowfall all year round. 

After crossing the border into Lesotho, Russell, Tsebo and I drove our 4x4 Landrover 10 minutes into the country where a meeting place had been agreed upon with the shepherds. Here we were to hand out the blankets which had been made with the money collected for the Shepherd's fund.

Many shepherd's pitched for the meeting; many whose names were not yet recorded on the list. 

A lifestyle fascinating to the visitors eye: I found Batman. 

woollen blankets,vibrant grass hats and decorated beanies made of cloth dot the fields of Lesotho. It is in Basotho culture to be passive, with a spirit which cannot be tainted. Most of the shepherds which I encountered today were friendly and curious. 

This unique African mountain culture is also a proud culture.
Batman in the centre background.

Geographically, Lesotho is landlocked by South Africa. Inevitably, it finds its economy assimilated with it as well, where it is based on agriculture, livestock, manufacturing and mining. Most shepherd's herd their goats and sheep with the help of ponies and dogs in the summer months, returning to work the mines as migrant workers in the winter.

The Basotho people live in houses constructed from walls of large stone and thatched rooves called mokhoros. 

Had to be done!

A shepherd boy close to the border. 

On our way back down to the South African border: South African immigration based at the foothills of the Pass prohibit vehicles which are deemed unsuitable for the climb up to the Lesotho border. Despite this... the Lesotho agents at the border control generally allow all vehicles types to attempt this precarious descent. As you can see, even the heavy-weight vehicles struggle up this hazardous course. This car in particular (a family of four, with two toddlers!) got stuck and could not continue further up the nasty bends, and had to wait for assistance to get off the mountain. 

Ancient paintings on a rockface

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

(Recommended song choice for this blog entry: "Done All Wrong" - The Black Rebel Motorcycle Club)

I had spent my Monday reading my book at the foothills of the majestic Southern Drakensberg Mountains, stretched out on a couch on the outside porch of Sani Lodge.

I think I was still in shock over how much my surrounding terrain had changed the further I moved away from the Wild Coast.

The Drakensberg Mountains form barriers for weather, culture, crop growth, estates, and countries (Lesotho -South African border). This specific part of the Drakensberg makes for a bewitching territory which remains remote and uncommercialised.

Today I went on a guided hike to the hidden rock art of the now extinct San people, accompanied by an elderly couple and our guide. The hike extends over 7 kilometres each way (14 kilometres in total), with an altitude gain of 250 metres.

We left Sani Lodge and drove to the Sani Lodge Hotel, a kilometre down the road. This is where we started walking from.

Enjoy the pictures - and my apologies, as they really stand no chance of doing this world's rarity any justice!

With jubilancy,
Ali.

Welcome to Sani Lodge!

The tales and trails of the unknown traveller: Sani Lodge Hotel has an attached golf course just off it's swimming pool area. You walk across the grassy fields until you make it to this wooden-swing bridge. This is me in the front, and in the foreground are the elderly couple and our guide. 

This area of dramatic beauty extending 3,000m above sea level I personally find is best enjoyed through a hike.

The unique geology of the Southern territory of the Drakensberg results in the findings of rare bird species, flora and fauna. We found ourselves to be one of the only two groups on the hiking trail on this particular day, as it is closed to casual visitors. We all needed permits to walk the route, as this ensures the protection of the rock paintings against vandals and damage. 

South Africa's national flower: The Protea.

As a part of the package, we receive a packed lunch at the start of this day hike. I parked off under the overhang of a colossal boulder, lay down on the cool rock, and nibbled on my power lunch. 

Dagga on the Trail. Smugglers coming from 60km within Lesotho will smuggle up to 30kgs of pot at a time on their backs into SA, walking it through the mountain trails. Some seeds fall out of their potato sack bags couriering the weed, dropping to the floor, flowering little marijuana plants along the Drakensberg escarpments.

Before the Zulus, the Basothos, and the cows - The San people and the eland roamed these powerful planes of the Drakensberg.

There are many different stories being told on this single rock face, and they are believed to have been painted at different times. Towards the centre bottom of this photograph you can see a rather large depiction of what is believe to be a Basotho man. You can notice the slight differences by his thick thighs and larger upper body. This was believed to have been painted over some of the original San rock art.

 

This is believed to be a depiction of a man with a porcupine quill shoved through his willy, symbolic of a a specific period of time in a San man's life where he abstains from sex.
The eland is a symbol of power, and the Khoi San used to mix the animal's blood with other herbal remedies as a form of ritual when engaging with the spirits of their ancestors.
The eland is (was) a sacred animal to the San people. It is believed that once hunted and killed, the hunters involved in its death must abstain from sex for the period of approximately a week, hence the porcupine quill.

The San mixed their paints from natural materials such as bird droppings, clays, and ash. These were then added to various fats and oils which had been collected from both plant and animal life.
The iron oxide from this home-made paint absorbs into the rock face quite fiercely, resulting in its extended preservation through storms (even chipping sometimes!).

There are high concentrations of rock art in the abundant escarpments of the Drakensberg.
There are over 35,000 paintings which have been found in over 600 caves and shelters in the Ikhahlmaba Drakensberg Park, which is now recognised as a world heritage site.

Our guide mentioned to us how the Zulu people, especially their witchdoctors saw the magic in the San people. When the Zulu's settled in the immediate area, it was a harsh terrain to adapt to, both for them and their herds of cattle. And yet, the remarkable thing was - the San people survived off the land, hunting and gathering, without the help of domestic produce and animals.

In recognition of this, it is a sad reality that many of the rock paintings were damaged and vandalised by witchdoctors believing that if they chip off some of the art from the rock faces and grind it down into their potions, some of the San's magic will reawaken in their rituals.

The sweet English couple I spent the day hiking with. Together over 50 years, and still going at it! 

Just to humour myself: This is a swallow's nest (www.thesweepingswallow.blogspot.com)!!! :)

Sani Lodge offers internet and wi-fi services in their coffee shop; laundry services; and daily room services. There is a cosy lounge which is rather agreeable after dinner, what with the icy cold that the night brings, embrace the fireplace within.

Accomodation is in the form of dormitories with 4 beds per/dorm (where I stayed); doubles; en-suite heated rondavels; cottages; and a camp site.

Another thing about Sani Lodge, is that there is no television, and in the owner Russell's own words:
"It is time to rediscover the lost art of conversation".

This is where I spent the better part of my Monday, reading my book, stretched out on that brown couch in the middle.

Meet Tania: the house cat. I made great friends with her over the time of my stay. I snuck her into my dormitory at night (at the time I was the only occupant in the dormitory), and she kept my feet warm, as the temperature drops dramatically after the sun goes down.

I got bat from the cat.

Less cat, more Drakensberg!

The lady in the moon

Monday. 25 February 2013

(Recommended song choice for this blog entry: "Angolan Women" - Life In a Day Soundtrack)

A zulu man and his girlfriend (Andile and Montli) met me in the small town of Kokstad, after a long drive from Mthatha in the Baz Bus.

Somehow, I had managed to overlook the fact that I was passing through an invisible demarcation of differing cultural territories. 

After spending the better part of 2 weeks amongst the Xhosa people, I was now moving on into the hands of the Zulus. 

I sat in the front of the VW Citi Golf, after arguing with both Andile and Montli over who was to sit in the front passenger seat. I thought it nicer for the couple to sit side-by-side in the front, but after 10 minutes of their polite insistence, I took my spot in the front next to this amicable Zulu man; while his girlfriend giggled herself into comfort in the back seat. It was their job to deliver me to Sani Lodge, where I would stay put until Thursday before making the trek to Soweto.

By this stage of my journey, I was ravenous. They kindly pressed pause on our Sunday evening movements and I ordered us a takeaway pizza. 

Shoving pizza slices into both their hands, I made them tell me tales from their traditional folklore, and we resumed our journey. 

This one in particular captured my interest.  I tell it in the voice of my new Zulu friend, he is a great story teller. This is the tale of the lady in the moon.

"As children, we were told stories of the lady in the moon.

In our culture, Sunday is the day of rest.

Long ago, when men were still hunting and the women gathering, the people would work hard each day of the week, excepting every seventh day. The spirits of our ancestors had forbidden us to work  on a Sunday. At the end of each weekly cycle, the tribe would gather - the men returning from their hunting and the woman from their gathering. 

One day. A simple young village woman defied the spirits of the ancestors - and  on a Sunday, went into the forest in search of firewood, her baby tied to her back with cloth. 

The spirits were furious at her disregard for their word - and as a sequel to their anger - were determined to make an example out of her for all the land to see.  

The provoked spirits set fire to the victims as well as the firewood they had collected - and then swept up their spirits and trapped in the moon - as a reminder for the land below.

And as for the coals and ashes from the fire, they threw them into the sky and made the stars."

I tried googling 'the lady in the moon', but unfortunately did not seem to find it anywhere. I am sure there are various versions of this folk tale, this is just the one that I was told.

Coincidentally, it was full moon when he told me this tale. He stopped the car on the side of the empty road, and in the dark all three of us squinted up to the lady in the moon. 

Please note this is not my photograph. It is just one I found surfing on the net which I am using as an example to show where the lady is. You can find its original HERE.

My best efforts at Microsoft Paint.  A simple outline of the lady in the moon, her basket of wood, and her baby which is tied to her back with traditional cloth.

You and I, connected

Sunday, 24 February 2013

(Recommended song choice for this blog entry: "Bold As Love" - John Mayer)

I couldn't stop myself from thinking back to Friday night's memory of lying down on my back as I played with the soft sand in the palm of my right hand, watching the orange sparks of our feral bonfire slip into the night sky, transforming themselves into silver stars. 

But it wasn't the aesthetics of that memory which I was still toying with, but rather the thought that came with it. I just remember thinking in that moment how incredibly connected we all are. How we all have very similar goals and struggles in life - yes, some experience them to a deeper extent than others - but these demons manifest in and through each of us. 

And yet, through all these struggles that we contend with - the ones we grapple, wrestle and sometimes try to brush aside - we find others, who in turn help us find ourselves.

As Johann drove me back to the Coffee Shack to continue my journey further, in his rattling bakkie which has seen the better days of the Wild Coast dirt roads, he pointed out proudly to a clinic on a hill not too far off, that Mdumbi Backpackers helped the community build.

He started telling me a story of how before this building was even a seed of thought in anybody's mind, it was an 8km walk to the closest clinic for the members of the Mankosi Community. 
This was a big problem, because patients were often too sick by the time they were willing to turn to Western medicine, and the walk is harsh over the rough and lengthy terrain. 

In an area where malnourishment, cholera and HIV reap havoc through the land, victims of these illness (especially from the rural communities) often face death if they are not treated in time.

ARV's have been administered to these clinics by the government, but standard government policy maintains that patients are to personally collect their medications from the clinics themselves - and in a community where close to 100% of it's members have no alternative mode of transport (besides their own two feet) - how are HIV patients who are too sick to move going to accomplish such a task?

That is why Mdumbi Backpackers and Transcape (their active NPO) have health, education, and economical growth high-up on their priority list.

Transcape have been running productive HIV/Aids awareness programmes, as well as conducting educational projects through Mdumbi Backpackers.
They have a collection of books which they made into a functioning library; they run extra English and Life Skills classes; they help prepare matriculants for their final exams; and once students have graduated, they help them in computer literacy, business, secretarial, entrepreneurial, and vocational training so that they can better explore the labour market. 

There is also a significant focus on economical growth in the immediate area. Transcape has come up with interest free micro-financing projects which support and encourage multiple small businesses in the area, such as shops, brick-making, gardening, chicken farming etc...

Mdumbi is one of South Africa's most community active backpackers, refusing to give up on the sustainable growth of this rural corner of the country. Together with Transcape, it continues to stimulate the community's access to support, knowledge and the resources which are vital to initiate the process of improving their livelihoods.

I suppose in the end it boils down to this:

Everybody has a choice in this world, either be a part of the problem or a part of the solution.

If you feel like you can help Mdumbi or Transcape in any way, or want to have a scroll through the different ways in which people can help out - get involved, and click HERE.

The man with twelve fingers

Sunday, 24 February 2013

(Recommended song choice for this blog entry: "Half a Decade" - Guy Buttery)

Sibongile, a man with 12 fingers came to fetch me from the Coffee Shack.

I surprised him by giving him a hug. 

I surprised myself as the words poured out of my mouth: 

"I bet it pays to have 2 extra fingers".

He burst out laughing, and so did I. A friendship was formed. 

It is funny how we as humans are so quick to sideline anything foreign to us, even our own. 

I use Sibongile as a minor example, but it plagues my mind knowing how quick we are to recognise our differences, over and above our similarities. And I see it everywhere. Even in myself, sometimes. 

It was a 45 minute dirt road drive in a Northerly direction with my new friend before I met Johann Stadler and his  staff at Mdumbi Backpackers: a bunch of people perched against the edge of this handsome, rugged coastline, who live differently and believe in what they stand for. 

Once again, I will let the pictures do the talking.

With a smile,

Ali.

ALI'S TIP OF THE TRIP:

#1) Lose the phone. Try being uncontactable where you can.

#2) Heads up: Mdumbi Backpackers does not sell alcohol on the property. You are however, free to bring your own booze (if that's how you cruise), or feel free to support the locals who sell courts of beer and cider in the village. 

#3) Mdumbi does not accept credit cards, so if you are planning on buying extra nibbles or treats during your stay, draw your cash from the banks before arriving - or stick to electronic banking.

#4) Head out to the Point Lookout when you have a moment. It is approximately a 5-10 minute walk from the main house - and on a clear day, you can see all the way to Port St. Johns.

These big lumbering creatures stalk around everywhere.

The cows head to the sandy beaches, as this is the one spot the ticks cannot get to them. 

And then they begin to groom themselves quite vigorously to rid themselves of any ticks that might have latched onto them whilst feeding on the lush grassy planes of the Wild Coast. A strange and yet amusing sight which diverted my attention for many a good minute during my stay at Mdumbi. Pretty priceless.

They don't care much for us people, who in this photograph, were sitting on a grassy patch just off the beach under the dapple shading of a small tree. I suppose they simply just slot us into their daily lives. I came across this particular young bull on the sandy beach later that day, and he half-charged, half-herded me off the sand. I assume I was too close for his liking. 

From my observations, apparently, they travel in packs.

And the preening, primping, and sprucing ensues - accompanied by strained, confused facial expressions and sounds from the animal.

I tried to get close to the cows, but they mostly just ran away. 

I could not help thinking that this photograph was almost symbolic of a sad love-story.
Less cows - more Mdumbi!

My friend Jimmy, erecting poles for his tight rope.
I met Jimmy at the Buccaneers Lodge and Backpackers where he works. He decided to take a mini vacation, and he was received warmly by the Mdumbi staff.

The Reception: I spent much of my time hanging out at reception with the other guests, discussing our travels, banging on the backpacker's drums and strumming on its in-house guitar. Indescribably, this spot has a gravitational pull for good energy, which at the time of my stay was extensive. 

The porch outside the reception area has great views and loungers comfortable enough to get stuck in the entire day.

All catered meals are served up here in the main house/reception.

The Kitchen: It runs mostly on gas and is on to recycling!
The backpack makes space for both self-catering and catering. I love food (eyes closed, mouth full), and I certainly found my stomach at Mdumbi. If you happen to be there on a Saturday, make sure that you sign your name down for their Saturday Seafood Feast. There prices vary, but are relatively cheap!

Breakfasts: ZAR20 - ZAR35
Toasted Sandwiches: ZAR15 - ZAR25
Dinner: ZAR50 - ZAR70

If you are as into carbohydrates as I am, do yourself the favour and pre-order one of these traditional Xhosa loaves of bread. They cost ZAR35 and make for a masterly lunch, or a splendid evening starter, and they are all baked by the Xhosa ladies who work the kitchen.

 Even self-catered guests join us up at the reception for our morning meal to suss out the glorious views which the day brings. Jimmy, showing us how to eat breakfast.

(had to, sorry Jimmy!)

More cows - and even the dog is captivated!
(I am not too sure what this says about me though.)

When I think back to the photograph of this guy (another guest at Mdumbi), I realise how I truly managed to encompass and embody the spirit of African time.

What is African time you ask?
In English, you will note that we have many ways of greeting one another, whether it be good morning; good day; or good evening etc... 

However, in the Xhosa language, when one greets another, there is but one word that is used, and that is molo (meaning hello). There is no reference to time. That is why they say that in Africa, we abide by African time:

Things will happen when they happen. 

In case you get lost: Mdumbi sits on the edge of a handsome coastline, a mere 200 metre walk away from pristine sandy beaches. The area is characterised by thick forests, a healthy estuary, and a thriving Mangrove swamp.

Escape the rush. One of the best things about Mdumbi is that you don't have to move an inch if you don't want to.

While I was at Mdumbi  my mobile phone conked out for the most part - and I found myself more disconnected from the outside world than I had anticipated. For the first time in my life I experienced the calm of being uncontactable. One thing less to distract me from this quiet bliss I had come all the way from Cape Town to experience. 

As I mentioned above, the ocean is a 200m walk from the backpackers. It flaunts a world-class point break - which with the right swell conditions and sandbank formations, pumps out a wave that you can ride for up to 1km. 

Johann took me on an early morning surf on Sunday morning.
The water was so warm that all I donned was my bikini, as opposed to my 4/3mm wetsuit which I usually cruise around in (in Cape Town). 

The water was crystal clear. Between the glorious sets that were rolling in, I would dive the 2 metres down to the bottom of the ocean floor to grab handfuls of sand, returning to the surface just to smear onto my board while I waited for the beasts to come crashing in. 

Johann whistled to me, pointing to a pod of dolphins swimming by in the distance.
There was a sea turtle too, who often wades past Johann in the morning to greet him.

I was in heaven. 

It was just me, the board, and a crypt of miscellaneous thoughts that had been gracefully unlocked by the calm of the ocean.

And then I promptly introduced my face to the sand; eyes closed, mouth full.

I wiped out hard.

But like anything in life, s**t happens. You just have to pull yourself towards yourself; check yourself before you wreck yourself; get back on that board, and paddle back out to face your demons.

We surfed for about 3 hours that day.

Welcome to my humble abode. This traditional Xhosa home made of mud bricks and thatch was my den for the weekend. These comfortable little huts come with a double bed inside and a stack of shelves for you to offload your baggage onto. As seen in this photograph, you have your own private seating and braai area which is blocked off by the wooden walls.

Mdumbi also offers accommodation in the forms of dormitories, double rooms, and a campsite!

The Lapa: the communal area where guests can go chill, socialise and play some pool. 

The colourful building in the background is Mdumbi's fully stocked kitchen for those wishing to accomplish a weekend of self-catering. 

I had just missed them - but there are these incredible sunflowers that have been planted all over the property. I am dying to return to this chest of treasures when they are in full-bloom. 

All the bathrooms have been decorated with intricate mosaicking, adding to the backpack's rustic feel.

Mdumbi is very much so an eco-friendly backpackers which is constantly trying to figure out new and innovative ways to drive forward sustainable eco-tourism.
The establishment depends a lot on solar power, which is used to spice up the showers' hot water.

Note the high ceiling in this bathroom. I got the biggest freight when I heard sounds of movement coming from directly above me while I was having a piddle. It was one of the cats, strutting along the inner walls, sussing out the visitors of his palace.

I was absolutely infatuated with their outdoor shower, constructed from old surfboards and driftwood.

There is quite a bit of renovation going on around the property due to a fire which burnt down the original main house. The perplexing and inspirational side to this story, is that Johann is busy rebuilding the entire structure with the hired help of the locals.

Johann is the man. The jack of SO many trades. He can pretty much learn how to do anything through example; and he generally only needs one. He is on a continuous exploration to find better systems of energy generation, recycling and economical sharing - and this building is of NO exception.

Johann has been busy making bricks out of concrete and reinforcing them with the recycled glass that he has crushed up and added to the mix. This is what he is rebuilding the main house out of.

Why stop there? He also has multiple permaculture gardens growing at the bottom of the property.

And here he is: everybody say hello to Johann :)

Johann also has big plans to renovate what will soon become a day spa, fully equipped with a jacuzzi. 

I walked past this building quite a number of times before figuring out what it actually was. This old building is a church. Services are held here by the local community every so often. 

Meet Lindeka. This harmonious woman with a million dollar smile and hands of gold gave me a massage in the old church building. She is qualified, and her hands are undeniably therapeutic. Soon, Lindeka and Lindiwe (the other masseuse) will have their own day spa to operate their business from. 

Some other activities which Mdumbi offers include:
* Guided coastal walks
* River kayaking
* Horse riding
* Cultural tours
* Cave hikes

It is important to note that 50% of Mdumbi belongs to the Mankosi Community, and that all the activities offered at the backpack are self-owned by members of the community itself.
Therefore, once again you can put your mind at rest as a traveller with a conscience, knowing that your vacation money is going to the places which need it most.

Next to the old church.

I don't think that magic is the correct word to be used to describe this place.
Perhaps bewitching, or enchanting? How about commanding in the least aggressive way  possible. Powerful, yet humble.

Everywhere you look, there are spellbinding views which stretch for kilometres.When the sun goes down, you can use the moon and the stars to guide your footsteps, for their glow is scintillating in the absence of the city lights.

I spent my first evening at Mdumbi (Friday), taking a midnight stroll down to the shoreline with 8 other people (some staff were in on this one too). It was Johann's birthday, and he had returned to Mdumbi after a day in Jeffrey's Bay spent with his family, just to meet me. In celebration of this wonderful man's birthday, we stacked a great pile of driftwood together which we had collected within 10 minutes, and lit a bonfire. We had carried bongo drums down with us from the main house, and a set of fire poi. 
The moon was full, and we lay on the beach, drumming away, sometimes getting up to dance along to the deep beats which echoed through the darkness, while at the same time, remained captivated by those fire dancing.

I don't see myself ever forgetting that night.
One for the books. 

They lit a fire on Saturday evening, and Johann sat me down with a bongo drum and taught me a few rhythms. He and I pounded away together for a good hour and a bit, and the strangest thing happened: Guests just started appearing from nowhere and settled themselves around the fire next to us, as if in a daze; a trance. 
We were the pipers.
It was a really good almost substantial feeling - being able to bring people together like this. We didn't force them to come. We didn't use words. We called them through the drums.
And materialised they did.

Next to the reception, is a lounge with a sound system. On the Saturday night, we threw a party, where guests of all ages joined in on the festivities and the dancing.

An old reservoir not far off from the main house. 

I was really bummed out to have to leave this place and it's people behind.  But sometimes, saying goodbye is just another way of saying I'll be back.

And Mdumbi, I will definitely be back.