A tour with a twist

"Lebo wants to speak to you outside..." said Thuli, Lebo's (founder and owner of Lebo's Backpackers) receptionist in a serious tone.

My heart jumped up in my throat (or similarly fell out of my bum) at this confrontation. Had I done something wrong or unconventional to displease the first and only black owner of a backpackers in South Africa??

I felt my cheeks flush all the blood down to my toes and absorb into the tiles on the floor. My body ceased to function for approximately half minute, after I nodded my head in her direction and watched her walk out towards the courtyard.

With a deep breath I made my way outside with my tail lodged solidly between my legs. As my bare feet touched the sandy courtyard, I kept my eyes locked on the patterns which the footprints before me had created with the little particles, I couldn't bring myself to look up - I was racking my brain searching for a possible transgression with which I could have offended this man. 

Everything was still - silent around me. 

Crisis Ali, what now?

Out of nowhere, a crowd burst into song:

"...Haaaaaaappy Biiiiiirthday toooo yoooooou!..." 

2 loud pops from two bottles of champagne bursting open, and I was in tears again.

The entire staff body, Lebo, his lovely Swedish wife Maria - big grins and warm hugs as they passed me around from one person to the next. 

Lebo pressed a glass of bubbly into my hands and said "time for us to dance!".

Someone cranked up the music, and my new friends taught me how to dance, Soweto-style!

I owe these happy souls my deepest thanks for an unforgettable day. 

The following are the pictures of my 22nd Birthday and the bicycle tour of Soweto which I took part in (a must!).

Soweto - an acronym for South Western Townships is home to an estimated 3.5 million people. Much bigger than Langa Township which I visited in early February, Soweto definitely steps up to be one of the most important and interesting sights of this nation. Apartheid struggles scarred the streets of Soweto, housing some of the most important political philosophers of the time. Over 144 square kilometres in size, a day in this motherland of townships is simply not enough.

I was lucky enough to put my name down for a 4 hour bicycle tour with Tshepo, one of the local tour guides of Lebo's Backpackers.

The streets of Soweto bared the brunt of what may be considered war in the 1970s and 1980s. Now, it has shaped itself to provide a mixture of wealthy suburbs as well as poor shanty locations.

Something the locals take seriously is their football stadium. Something to look out for is the festive buzz that runs like electricity through the air on match days. 

Local men in the middle of the day in one of the many shebeens (informal pubs) that characterise Soweto.

Moments before this man's daughter was on his shoulders.

My favourite face of Soweto. This man sat on a trash can outside of a shebeen, watching us tourists learn how to dance traditional Zulu dances. I think his facial expression sums it all up.

The men giving it their best at traditional Zulu dancing. Tshepo our guide is second from the right.

Waiting for change, Soweto 2013.

These two little boys started dancing and singing for us as we passed them on our bicycles.

A sign I saw over a shack in the neighbourhood.

Every day may not be good, but be there something good in every day.

Our second stop on our bicycle journey was inside a small shack where we sat down around a small wooden bench/table to sip on zamalek (750ml beer in a bottle) and nibble on cow cheeks dipped in salt and spice. Needless to say, we ate it all.

Being taught to use our hands to dip the cow cheek first in salt and then in spice. They made us Millie Meal - a white sticky starch like food - to calm down our taste buds which were going berserk from the spice. 

In honour of my birthday, the bicycle tour stopped at the local shebeen to celebrate with zamalek, the local beer!

A friend for life.

Celebrating my birthday with the Soweto locals - local is lekker!

Lunch in the form of Bunny Chow was waiting for us on our return from the bicycle tour.  This includes curry wedged firmly between two thick pieces of bread. Lebo's child in the photograph, enjoying lunch with the tourists :)

My Bunny Chow.

Surprise birthday party! :)

Lebo, founding owner of Lebo's Backpackers in Soweto.

Even the gardener took part in the birthday festivities! :)

Lebo's staff took me out for a night on the town for a birthday treat!

The wonderful ladies at Lebo's Backpackers in Soweto.

The pool table in the entertainment courtyard.

Rustic spaces with hints of Africa.

The Rastafarian Bar with the same 'honesty tab' concept as Bulungula.

Fire pit.

There are many musical instruments hanging around which you are free to play if that is in your nature. I definitely got my hands on a few of the acoustic guitars and bongo drums.